With all of the moulds set up I faired in the rabbet from the stem all along the keel, leaving a little wood there for fine tuning once planking begins. A big slick was the best tool for this on the stem, several different sizes of rabbet planes helped to fair it in along the keel. Next I scarfed together a 25' length of 3" x 3/4" Radiata Pine and used it to work out the plank lineout. This was done by clamping this batten around the moulds without any edge set to determine how a straight plank would lie in different positions, and working out how much shape in each plank I could allow knowing that most of my Huon Pine plank stock is between 4" and 6" wide. Then I scarfed together lengths of 32x32mm Radiata Pine to make the temporary ribbands, and fitted them to the moulds with chipboard screws closely following the plank lineout marks, but fitting two ribbands for every three planks. The transom is 1 1/2" Huon Pine, but I added a transom frame of 1" Crows Ash, a tough and durable timber now rare but once called Australan Teak, which came from my mate Matt Balkwell clearing out his father's shed (Ron Balkwell is an elderly, greatly respected boatbuilder). This will make great screw-holding for the stern plank ends. I measured out where I wanted the frame heels to go (7 1/2" centres) and chiselled out pockets in the keel for the frame heels. Using a very thin batten 2" wide, I laid out the positions of each rib and pencilled these on every ribband so I can locate the ribs accurately when bending them in.
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AuthorIan Smith, Boatbuilder (ret'd) Archives
January 2024
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